Fazal Majid's low-intensity blog

Sporadic pontification

Fazal

Michael Recchiuti Hazelnut Praline

The dukes of Praslin-Choiseul stem from one of the most illustrious noble families in France, but they are best known because one of their pastry chefs invented the confection known as praliné in honor of his patron. Brillat-Savarin famously wrote “the invention of a new dish does more for the happiness of mankind than the discovery of a new star”. Apparently it does wonders for a family’s name recognition as well.

Praliné is basically a blend of finely ground hazelnuts and almonds and cooked with boiling sugar (otherwise, it would just be another form of marzipan). If it is mixed with chocolate, it becoms gianduja. If the nut fragments remain discernable in a matrix of caramelized sugar, the result is nougatine, one of the heights of French pastry-making. One interesting variety is feuilleté praliné, where the praliné is blended with pieces of extremely fine and crisp wafers to yield a confection that has at once the smoothness of praliné and the crispiness of a flaky pastry. When I was a kid, I would often buy “Lutti Noisettor”, a hard hazelnut-flavored candy where the core had this same stratified laminated and crunchy texture, but it seems it has been discontinued, perhaps the fabrication technique was too complex to be profitable.

Michael Recchiuti is a chocolatier who moved to the San Francisco about a decade ago to start his confectionery business with his wife Jacky. He has a boutique in the Ferry Building food court and a number of the better groceries in the city carry his products. A small operation like his cannot make its own chocolate couverture, and it appears he relies on Guittard, another reputable San Francisco company. In addition to his lovely chocolate bouchées, Recchiuti makes a line of chocolate tablets.

Recchiuti Hazelnut Praline wrapper

My favorite one is the Hazelnut Praline, which is actually a feuilleté praliné. A safety disclaimer ought to be mandatory on the wrapper, as biting into a piece is an amazingly intense experience. The couverture is excellent, but it is the praliné that grabs your attention: rich, dark, clearly made with a high proprtion of nuts to sugar and blended with dark rather than milk chocolate, and with the delightful crispy texture of feuilletine. Everyone I gave a taste of this bar had the same reaction of utter amazement, it is that good.

Hazelnut Praline detail

The chocolate bar is clearly made by hand, as you can see from the irregular shape on the other side of the mold. This is unfortunate in a way, as it means distribution will remain limited for the foreseeable future. I have worked it into my standard tour of San Francisco for visiting friends and relatives, as they are unlikely to experience it elsewhere.

Update (2006-11-24):

All good things come to pass, and this product has been discontinued. The other Recchuti bars seem uninspiring.

Why Microsoft is struggling to remain relevant

There is definite sense of malaise at Microsoft today. On the face of it, this is odd – the US government, while successful in demonstrating illegal behavior, only struck them with an ineffectual slap on the wrist and no monetary damages. Microsoft then settled all its legal liabilities with AOL, Sun, Burst et al for what amounts to pocket change for them. The nuclear winter in the tech industry means there is no investor money flowing to a challenger, with the possible exception of Google.

Yet the MSFT stock price languishes (that has a corrosive effects on employee morale as stock options no longer function as incentives). More worrisome (for them), there seems to be a sentiment the company has accreted bureaucratic bloat and lost its ability to deliver products.

Think whatever you want of Microsoft products, their modus operandi has always been to come out with a laughable 1.0 product, then a so-so 2.0, followed by an acceptable 3.0 and a 4.0 to mop up the competition if the 3.0 has not already. In many cases, Microsoft products prevailed not because of their intrinsic brilliance, but because of their evenness – no brilliant features, but then again no fatal flaws either. This takes a very disciplined software development process. The fact is, no fundamentally new version of Windows has been released since Windows 2000, and Longhorn keeps slipping and shedding features like integrated search that Apple, a much smaller company with a far less impressive R&D budget, manages to deliver today.

Bill Gates saw first-hand how the IBM anti-trust process, while never brought to its conclusion, paralyzed IBM’s decision-making with legal hand-wringing over compliance issues. Some pundits believe the Microsoft is being gradually enervated in the same way . As anyone who has worked with corporate lawyers can attest, they sometimes seem to think the only way to avoid liability is to do nothing, much as decapitation is a sovereign remedy to headaches. That said, Microsoft has consistently shown a pattern of brazen contempt for the law, it is hard to imagine that changing just because Bill Gates was ridiculed for his testimony.

Others, of a more curmudgeonly bent, attribute Microsoft’s inability to deliver products to their recent emphasis on blogging. Writing a half-decent blogging certainly takes time, more than one realizes because intense cognitive activity alters the perception of time. That said, it is hard to take this hypothesis seriously. Few Microsoft bloggers have the prodigious output of a Scoble, and arguably his blogging is a direct part of his job as evangelist, not a distraction.

The core of the problem is that Microsoft is still a two-trick pony. The bulk of its revenues and profits come from its Windows and Office monopolies (and ancillaries like development tools). Despite all the cash poured into diversification efforts like MSN or PocketPC, they have not managed to expand significantly outside these two cash cows. The problem is, both desktop operating systems and basic productivity suites are maturing markets that are fast becoming commodities. Having successfully fended off commercial competition, they are now left with competitors they cannot financially choke away.

Free (as in beer) software threatens not so much to destroy their monopoly but rather to put such intense price pressure on their margins as to effectively condemn Microsoft to stagnation. Electricity, gas and water utilities are also monopolies, but they do not enjoy the same pricing power or stock multiples, and that’s due to the commodity nature of their businesses, not just regulation.

The corporate market is saturating, and IT managers have learnt from the bubble that applying stable technology to business problems is much more profitable than constantly chasing the bleeding edge in search of an elusive payoff. Microsoft pulled a fast one with their notorious Licensing 6.0 program that left a sour taste in many an IT manager’s mouth, and any further attempts to gouge the business market will likely lead to widespread rebellion and wholesale moves to OpenOffice.

The consumer market is left, and that’s where I think Microsoft is in the biggest trouble. At one point Office was more valuable than Windows, but it has been stagnating of late. The dearth of compelling reasons to upgrade since at least 1997 or so certainly accounts for that, leading Redmond to clutch at straws with ridiculous ad campaigns.

I have two Office licenses at home, Office 2000 on my PC (well, it has broken down last week, and I simply can’t bring myself to care), and Office.X on my Mac. I never use either. It’s interesting to look at why:

  • Microsoft Word is a program consumers mostly use to write administrative correspondence like letters to their banker – those trying to write the Great American novel are probably not a significant user base. Guess what? You don’t write letters to your banker anymore, you use their online banking site, and at worst write them an email. I haven’t used Word for personal use in at least three years. Not a good sign for the flagship component in the suite.
  • Much the same can be said of Excel – it is used mostly for personal finance or as a simple database program. You don’t use a spreadsheet to manage your bank accounts or stock portfolio – you use your online banking or a more specialized program like Quicken or Microsoft Money (the latter is the only Microsoft program I still use regularly for my personal use). As Microsoft Money is now for all practical purposes a loss-leader for MSN, it is hardly going to be a savior for Microsoft’s margins.
  • As for Outlook, three words: Hotmail, Yahoo, GMail. Enough said…
  • Frontpage is still popular with small businesses but is declining. For personal publishing, it has been all but superseded by easy to use blogging software from the likes of Six Apart or Google.
  • Powerpoint and Access are more specialized programs that are mostly used in a business setting. In this networked age, databases are meant to be shared and the kind of people who can deal with Access are more likely to set up a small PHP+MySQL app on a cheap hosted account.
  • The more consumer or small-business oriented editions of Office include their also-ran photo editing suite. It faces crowded markets with good-enough free competitors like Picasa, or Adobe Photoshop Elements, the de facto standard for advanced amateurs, not to mention the myriad of so-so shovelware that comes bundled with digital cameras or scanners. Video editing is another segment where Microsoft is weak.
  • Microsoft Publisher is similarly a program that has trouble breaking out of a crowded field.

In all these examples, there is one constant – most applications other than rich media creation are moving to the web. Not in the way originally envisioned by the advocates of the network computer, circa 1998 – not general productivity suites (à la Office, only ported to Java), but rather the underlying business processes themselves reimplemented in a way that does not require editing documents, and more importantly for the companies concerned, no manual processing of documents on the other end, with huge labor savings for those concerned.

So what is the way out? Perhaps the audience for software is fragmenting the same way mass audiences for other forms of software such as music or television have exploded with the proliferation of choice. Apart from video games, writing software is still a low-overhead industry with few barriers to entry, and the Internet has made distribution much more cost-effective for small software companies, specially when the product is delivered as a service over a web browser Microsoft can buy out small startups, but the opportunity costs of management attention often outweigh potential revenues. Quite possibly there is no way out of Microsoft’s (admittedly comfortable) predicament.

Chocovic Ocumare

OcumareThe world’s best chocolate comes from the criollo variety of Venezuela, renowned for its complex and subtle flavor. Unfortunately, this variety, the original and purest variant of cacao, is fragile and has poor yields, making it expensive to produce. That’s why bars like Amedei Porcelana sell for more than $10 per tablet.

Fortunately, there are inexpensive alternatives. For those who live near that great South California institution, Trader Joe’s, run, don’t walk, to stock up on Chocovic Ocumare, which retails for a mere $1.79 a bar. Chocovic is based in Barcelona, and has a line of single-origin Southern American chocolates named in honor of their places of origin (Ocumare is a coastal cacao-growing district of Aragua state in Venezuela). Few people immediately associate Spain with chocolate, but the Spaniards are the ones who first imported the cocoa bean to Europe, and Spain obviously maintains a close relationship with Latin American nations which produce the best cacao (unlike the more industrial but lower grade stuff that comes from Ghana/Ivory Coast and South-East Asia).

As with all criollos, the Ocumare is relatively mild but has a very rich taste that lingers in the mouth. It may seem like sacrilege to use it for cooking, but when made into a ganache and poured as a frosting over a cake, it is simply phenomenal. Just make sure the cake in question is exceptional enough to deserve this truly regal treatment…

What to think of pocket digicams

Once you have used a digital SLR (DSLR) with a nice, clean, large, low-noise sensor, the poor image quality of most compact digicams becomes hard to tolerate. This is in contrast with film, where a $70 Olympus Stylus Epic can compete in image quality with thousand-dollar cameras.

Then it hit me: don’t consider a pocket digicam as a camera, think of it as a pocket photocopier/scanner instead, like HP’s ill-fated CapShare. I use my pocket digicam mostly to record specials in stores, flyers, magazine articles, diagrams on a whiteboard and the like. Japanese otaku teenagers are way ahead of me, as many bookstores in Tokyo now ban cameraphones because the kids would just snap photos of manga comic books and not pay.

A 5 megapixel digicam, pretty mainstream nowadays, with a 4:3 aspect ratio can “scan” a standard US Letter or A4 page at an approximate resolution of 240 spi. This is significantly better than a fax, which scans at 150 spi. Many pocket digicams have lenses that are serviceable in macro mode. The limiting factor is probably setting up the camera, as you can’t find portable copy stand like the vintage Leica BOOWU (also shown top left in this outfit photo).

Ripping your CD library and building a home network

Since I moved six years ago, I keep my CDs in binders (four of them, plus one for DVDs and two for CD-ROMs) and the jewel cases in storage. I just finished ripping the first folder’s worth, about 250 CDs and SACDs in iTunes. The bulk of the time spent is actually in cleaning up inconsistent CDDB metadata and locating scans of the cover art. As I mentioned earlier, I am ripping to Apple’s lossless encoding, which is a lossless zip-style compression of the 16-bit, 44.1kHz stereo PCM CD audio stream. There is no loss of quality and my iTunes library should now be a bit-for-bit exact copy of my CD collection (or at least the third or so I have already ripped).

iTunes status

Because there is no loss of quality, I won’t have to go through the effort again, whereas if I had ripped to a lossy format like MP3 or AAC, I would need to do so again to play on my HiFi setup or if the level of compression was too high. Hard drives are cheap, and storing 250GB of music is no longer the daunting prospect it was a few years ago. Lossy formats like MP3 take detail away, rather than introducing noise, and thus it is not immediately obvious just how much damage was done, but side-by-side listening makes it clear. I always find it very amusing to read people nit-picking about subtle details of audiophile gear, and then basing their subjective judgment on testing with MP3s or (even worse) video game soundtracks played over a PC sound card.

Due to electromagnetic interference, a PC chassis is the last place you want to put quality analog audio circuitry. The way to go is to hook up a PC or Mac’s Toslink optical or SPDIF coaxial digital audio output to an external digital to analog converter (“DAC”, such as the one built into every home theater surround receiver). This situation is reminiscent of high-end CD players, where the laser pickup mechanism (“transport”) is in a different box from the DAC to improve quality. I do most of my listening from my Mac connected to my Yamaha home theater connected by Toslink, or from Sennheiser HD-650 headphones connected to a Headroom DAC and headphone amp (via USB).

There are alternatives to a direct connection, such as a Squeezebox, Apple AirPort Express, or one of the lesser devices that allow you to stream music from your computer to your amplifier via a wired or wireless local area network. WiFi may be fashionable, but I don’t recommend using it for streaming audio or video because the jitter introduced by interferences degrades sound quality.

Streaming sound over the house is of course the first step in building a home network. Market studies show most people use a home network only to share Internet access or a printer between several computers, and they haven’t yet reached even this first stage. One of the most obvious uses for home networking is remote monitoring using a webcam, but this hasn’t been marketed effectively. Remote control of TiVo is another non-contrived application, much appreciated by their users.

Given the overwhelming amount of gadgetry that clutters my tiny San Francisco-size apartment, it is natural I have a home network, entirely wired, although I do have WiFi for visitors. In an idle moment, I mapped it (PDF) as a practical exercise in using OmniGraffle instead of Visio. One conclusion I drew from a cursory analysis of it is that all the networking gear combined did not amount as much in value as my headphones alone. Home networking as a category is not going to dominate consumer electronics anytime soon…